“Larry Oka”. La Rioja.
Again, if you have not met me, my name is Ofa Helotu Faingaanuku, people call me Ofa for short.
My background is rugby and travel. I am far more comfortable talking about my travel experiences than giving tasting notes on wine, but I am very interested in wine destinations and the stories behind them.
So this is me talking about my trip to what I once called “Larry Oka”. If it sounds like La Rioja, it is. Haha.
Rugby World Cup. Paris. Then South.
It was the 23rd of October 2023. I was away in France for the Rugby World Cup, watching the semi finals.
First, New Zealand versus Argentina. A convincing victory from the All Blacks over the Pumas.
The following evening in Paris again, South Africa managed to overcome English pressure with what they have made famous as the “bomb squad”. If you are part of a rugby community, you know exactly what that means. A powerful bench, almost like swapping an entire forward pack for fresh size, strength, and power. The English tried to counter it with two of their best props on the bench, but they were unable to withstand it. South Africa earned their place in the final.
As a group, we were returning to Paris the following weekend for that final. But in the interim, we ventured down to the south of France, where I had previously played.
My father in law designed the itinerary based on his experiences visiting me when I was playing for Bayonne.
And that is how we ended up heading to La Rioja.
Based in San Sebastián
We were based in San Sebastián. I could go on and on about San Sebastián, but I will leave that for another contribution.
One day, we travelled down to La Rioja by coach. I was excited for this because during my time in Europe, I had consumed a few bottles of Campo Viejo. The Tempranillo grape from La Rioja is synonymous with the region.
As we travelled through northern Spain, I could see from my photos the typical landscape at that time of year in October. Dry. Green in parts, but not lush. We passed through towns like Zambrano and Labastida. Out the coach windows, just beautiful scenery. It reminds you very quickly that you are not at home anymore.
I would not say the land is arid, but as you begin to venture into the valleys where La Rioja sits, via San Vicente, you start to see vineyards. Rows of vines lining the banks across the horizon. Beautiful, like any vineyard country. Not manicured for show, but shaped by the work of generations.
The vineyards spread across the land with mountains set behind them. I am not sure what those mountain ranges are called (Sierra de Cantabria), but they frame the region perfectly. Bright blue sky. Clouds sitting lightly over the tops. We were very fortunate with the weather. It was a beautiful day.
The Old Town of La Rioja
As you get closer to the main town, you start to notice how the land is divided between vineyards.
We arrived in the small old town of La Rioja. Sandstone colours. Earth tones. Paved streets across the centre. Churches. People still living their everyday lives in this area.
We entered through a large old doorway with bells above us, opening into a small enclosed space typical of European living. Amazing narrow lanes. Three storey buildings. Small black iron balconies. Light fittings exactly as you would expect in a small European town.
Local butchers with locals talking to them about what they need. Familiar faces. That sense of community. I love seeing that.
Wine merchants displaying what is available, predominantly from the region, but also options for locals wanting something different. The setting was clean, simple, and beautiful.
We saw both the Basque flag and the Spanish flag flying. Strong ties to Basque culture. Even the fonts used on signage have that distinctive Basque identity. If you have been in that area, you know the look and feel.
The Basque flag is almost like a Union Jack in layout, but with red, green, and white.
We stopped in the main plaza to wait for the clock at the town hall. When it struck the hour, a small mechanical display came out and played a tune. While we waited, I took photos of the streets, the cafés, the bakery. Everything felt like a postcard, but it was simply everyday life.
Even the way retailers presented their products. Simple, clean, thoughtful. I do not know if that is expected of every shop in town, but it helps you immerse yourself in what the town is about.
And this town is about grapes. About wine. Known throughout Europe and the world.
Vineyard and Architecture
We then moved on to the vineyard visit.
One of the striking things was the architecture. It felt like there had been a real passion for design. The contemporary structure layered against the vineyards and the mountains created a beautiful contrast. Vineyards in rows. Modern architecture. Mountains behind. Blue sky above. Bodegas Ysios
A strong contrast of elements, but very beautiful.
The winery we visited was Bodegas Baigorri.
We were given small earpieces, similar to what you might get at Alcatraz in San Francisco or at the War Memorial in Canberra. The guide had her own microphone and spoke to us through the earpieces. It meant we could clearly hear everything she was saying while still looking at what she was explaining.
I thought that was very clever. Often guides want you to look at them, but here we were able to match her words with what was actually happening around us.
Baigorri uses a gravity flow system. Trucks arrive at the top level with the grapes. They are poured in and sorted. Then, as you move down each level of the winery, the process continues naturally through gravity. From sorting, to stainless steel vats, to wooden barrels, and into the ageing process.
It was a clean and impressive operation. Stage by stage. Steel vats. Wooden barrels. Storage areas where wines are tested over the years. There was even a bridge that walked across the barrel room, giving you a unique perspective and helping with the storytelling.
From Grape to Glass
After walking through the process from grape to bottle, we were led into a meal.
A three course meal paired with wines. We were in a large group, but it still felt intimate. Being introduced to the wine from the very beginning of its journey and then sharing it together at the table felt special.
We tasted a red alongside lamb. The winery sits near Samaniego, and the setting itself added to the experience.
I will leave the detailed tasting notes and deeper analysis of La Rioja to The Wine Chief.
Why I Love Visiting Wine Regions
All in all, I am always excited to visit a region where I have been drinking their wine.
I have a huge curiosity about places I visit. I often find that curiosity through the food or the drinks of that region. There are elements in the flavours and notes that are synonymous with the area. The soil. The climate. The history.
There is also something about wanting to identify with a meal, with a drink, with a sport. I find that fascinating.
Hopefully I can continue to add more of my experiences, both those I have had and those I am looking forward to discovering.
Hopefully that was not too dry for you. Excuse the pun… haha
Take care. Talk to you soon.
ofahelotu